The Fundy coast of Nova Scotia (the Glooscap Trail, in NS Travel parlance) is known for its tides. The highest in the world, at over 50 feet.
What does that mean? It means that boats moored in places such as Parrsboro, ground out twice a day. It’s kind of freaky.
So with three nights spent in Beaverbrook, just south of Truro (made recently infamous for it’s bigotted, anti-gay mayor), we spent one day travelling north through such towns as Economy, Parrsboro, and Advocate Harbour, and the next day along the southern shores of Fundy; Maitland, Noel, and Summerville.
Hants county. Hants. Makes me chuckle. And inspiration for a children’s book I’d like to do: Lost My Pants in Hants. (Story synopsis to follow.)
One of the highlights of this leg of the trip lay in the small, Hants (heehee) County village of Summerville. Here you will find the Avon Emporium, an (almost) kitschy little gift store and restaurant owned and run by Doris Hagmann. Here you will also find the best (best!) seafood chowder you will likely experience in all your travels.
That’s Doris, there.
How we found Doris and the Avon is a bit of a story. We had stopped in Maitland, just up the coast a bit from Summerville, at an antique store. Actually, the store was a single large room in a restored 1870s stickbuilt house that was built for the youngest certified captain ever to sail out of these parts. The owner (we didn’t get his name) toured us around a bit and showed us all of the original and restored woodwork and plaster.
It happened to be for sale, too. $190 000 buys you a 4000 square foot heritage home. Unfortunately, it heats for $3000 a month. They didn’t do insulation back then, and this was the good captain’s summer house.
Anyhow, just as we were leaving, the owner suggested that we stop over at the Avon and try the chowder, which we did. We wouldn’t have, either, without the recommendation. Such is the kismet of travel, I suppose.
So… two full days in the Fundy region centered on Truro. The weather, a bit gloomy on on of those days, brilliant sun on the other. On that brilliantly sunny day on the north shore, just west of Advocate Harbour, we hit the Cap D’Or lighthouse. A beautiful place indeed.